Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
